Bolt stuck: HELP!

[NDean]

I'm working on my first m53 build and I've run into a problem. From what I understand, getting the bolt stuck is common. My problem is that the bolt head is stuck in the trunion. The barrel extension is installed but NOT the barrel, so using the barrel to get the bolt unstuck is not an option. I feel that if I pulling on the cocking handle any harder I might break something (pun intended). ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[42rocker]

2 things come to mind, first broomstick, try to use broomstick or dowel in and push against the barrel extension hoping that the push back will cause the rollers to unlock. 2nd is to open the top cover and lift the feed tray and then using hand or rope or ? try to pull back on the roller that's on top on the bolt or push against it with something. Hopefully one will work.

Good Luck. Sorry did not see this sooner. I'll bet you have fixed already.

Later 42rocker

[Blanksguy]

1: Remove Butt-Stock and recoil-spring.....then:
2: Usea flat-bar....like a large screwdriver placed between the front of the barrel-extension and the rear of the barrel-stop riveted inside the receiver.......use it to lever-back the front of the barrel-extension "LIGHTLY" compressing the recouperator-spring-assembly..........then:
3: While you have the barrel-extension seated to the rear...........either "block"/"lock" it in the position while you pull the cocking-handle rearward.

In this position, your bolt-head rollers should be unlocked....allowing you to pull bolt-assembly to the rear.

Regards, RichardS in MI.
US Army, Retired
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net

[NDean]

You guys are awesome. After reading the two previous posts I was able to get the bolt unstuck. For some reason, however, the bolt seems to get stuck every time it is pushed into the trunion (perhaps not correct term). Is it possible that the bolt head/rollers are too stiff? Even hard tugs on the cocking handle won't make it release. Thanks again, guys.
Noah

[42rocker]

Questions come to mind. Is this built? Is it a wiselite? Are you still building it? A rebuild? More info would help us to try to help you... I know you stated your first build, but info..

A lot of folks would check something like this by doing a pogo test (needs barrel in). This mainly tests the recuperator... Review this area

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=1612

which is from the stickies section under the mg42 section. Double check this part...."How does that front nut get installed again ? With the long leg facing towards the butt-stock when the recuperator is in the gun. Shown the correct way on the left side in this picture."

Also the rails being straight, no bends major problems. Does the charging handle move freely without the bolt? Happens without the trigger pack installed. Has the receiver been welded straight?

Good Luck

Later 42rocker

[TactAdv]

Any chance you got the trunnion ("camming piece")in reversed, so that the camming ears are facing FORWARD, with the solid square edge facing the bolt rollers now??

That would cause your described problem, to a Tee, yet still allow the rollers to push in and unlock with the force removed.

-TomH

[Mike]

Are the rails aligned with the trunnion?

Cover/feed tray ears on the trunnion should be up and per Tom the flush end toward the back and the ears forward.

Remove recouperator spring assembly,
Using only bolt head, it should slide freely in and out of the trunnion.

[JBaum]

Try it with a barrel on the barrel extension, then tell us how it works. Without the barrel, it's not surprising you're having trouble.

[drooling idiot]

is the cam piece from a dummy gun? i believe some dummy gun builders machined the unlocking lugs off the cam.

[NDean]

Thanks all! I'm going to troubleshoot with the advice you've all given me and respond with the results asap. Thanks again, guys!

[Blanksguy]

NDean,

You don't perhaps have a bolt-assembly for a full-auto-gun with the "anti-bounce" spring/plunger-assembly installed inside of it that you are believing is stuck/"hard-to-pull-open" (?).

Putting the barrel onto the barrel-extension will also help.

Regards, RichardS in MI.
US Army, Retired
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net

[NDean]

Hello gentlemen,
Although I'm still in the process of troubleshooting, I thought I would post some pics in an effort to better inform you guys as to what I'm dealing with. It's a re-weld, with the rails held in with bolts. I intend to install the rails correctly (with rivets) as soon as I get it firing. The bolt does slide past them with ease. Please let me know if you see anything unusual! Thanks again, men.

[TactAdv]

Well, from those pictures, it is obvious the the head of your recuperator rod is pretty badly smashed on the inside edge, it's got quite a bit of peening damages. That, alone, can be in and of itself the source of many problems in these guns.

For that amount of peening damages to occur that visibly, that says the recuperator springs are very likely well past their prime and are not providing the requisite amount of buffering resistance to the barrel in recoil.

You can do a sort-of, maybe test of the usability of these springs by placing your assembled gun, minus the nozzle/flash hider cone (take it off so just the booster face is showing), then press down on the stock all the way until you compress the recuperator spring set.....if it is anywhere near good the whole gun should spring back up, the full weight of the gun, when you take your hand off the stock letting it rise against the spring pressure you just compressed. That is NOT a "for sure- 100%" guarantee that those springs are good, but if the gun is mushy coming up, or doesn't come up at all, that NEEDS to be fixed before you try anything else.

Parts kit guns are WELL USED in almost all cases, and having a set of recuperation springs long past their prime is common, and can REALLY ruin an otherwise good gun if continued to be used.

You can try and replace the spring set yourself in a couple ways, including modifying a new MG3 recuperator, (cut, weld new back plate on tube), or you can have Bob Naess (Black River Militaria) replace it with a new correct set of springs for a nominal fee.

That's what sticks out at me from those pictures and is worth pursuing/investigating because a dead set of recuperator springs will let the barrel + bolt head slam back forcefully into the camming section, preventing it from slowly unlocking under the normal/proper calculated force. If you can pull the bolt rollers closed with hand pressure just by pulling on the cocking handle, that may not be your issue here, but that peened recuperator head sure is telling you something!! ;-)

-TomH

[42rocker]

At first look this is a full auto mg42, right. Hopefully you have all paper work done for a full auto. As stated before about the pogo test and review of the recuperator. Double check the post about it and go from there.

Full Auto, Good Luck.

Later 42rocker

[42rocker]

Well we pm-ed each other and reviewed things and now it looks like an m-53 kit that's being made in semi auto. He just needs to needs to learn how to convert the Full Auto bolt and a few other things that he can find on this website.

Later 42rocker