Receiver reweld service

[MGW LLC]

Say if I wanted to offer a rewelding service, just HOW far could I go and still remain 80% compliant?

[lkiers]

there dosent seem to be any hard and fast rule about this.
what I have been seeing others do is tac in a piece of metal so that the barel can not be inserted untill this piece is removed, and blocking the rail rivet holes either by welding them closed or blocking them with another taced piece of metal.
other than that they are complete
I dont think there is any way to tell that you have exceded 80% untill the ATF is knocking on your door

[resting]

I thing to be safe you should probably weld in the SA bolt stud and lengthen the grip stick slot so that it not hold the original full auto grip stick.

[MGW LLC]

YES! Semi auto mods would be made to the scrap pieces BEFORE the first weld is made.


If all that is required to meet 80% is to block the rail holes and a barrel block then I could gear up for this on a mass scale easily.

I am also considering doing S/A Bolt and Gripstick Mods as well.

I could do the 3 and 4 cut kits with no problem. The yugo kits would cost more and require more parts.

Is anyone interested?

[wiselitearms]

Say if I wanted to offer a rewelding service, just HOW far could I go and still remain 80% compliant?

You may consider doing one and submitting it to BATFE "Tech Branch" for a determination of wether you have "non firearm".
That is what Wise Lite Arms did with our Yugo M53/MG42 receiver and camming section halves. With the parts in their hands we called the "Tech Branch" folks and they were quite clear about what we could NOT do if we wanted to sell the receiver parts as a non-firearm. Go past a certain point, or do certain operations and it can be either an FFL item or a MG receiver!
Just a suggestion.....

WLA

[lkiers]

sory, I thought the semi mods went without saying

[Bil]

Thank you,Tony, for the suggested procedure.It could save a lot of trouble down the road. ---bil

[Cpt_Kirks]

The BRP 80%, which is BATFE approved, has no ejection port, no rivet holes and a very large blocking plated welded in. However, it has no semi mods.

I was kinda thinking of doing this with my last two extra receivers but can't decide if it's worth the hassle. Receiver pieces are selling pretty good as it is.

[Bil]

Kirks-I would agree with you-with the cut receivers going for a good price again,how much more could you charge for one that is welded-up? It seems the profit margin would be used up by the time involved.I think you could make more by selling the cut=ups,and offering the welds seperately.There would be a margin on both that way,and your time would be better paid for.Just my opinion. ---bil

[Blanksguy]

Ineedhelp,
After looking into this more.......I would think that if you:

1: Weld-in the semi-only lower stud to protrude into the receiver-area at the correct height.

2: Weld-in a cross-bar across the last two/"rear-rivet-holes" to keep a bolt from being installed.

3: The "TIG"-weld the "scrap-pieces" ("Straight" and "correct-lengths" at the critical-points) into a now 80% receiver. Then grind/sand the welded areas to duplicate the surrounding surfaces and "fine"-bead-blast the entire unit.......it could be mailed back to the owner.

Two other suggestions at this point would be:
1: Due to the different-length semi-only trigger-group "lengths", I would leave this area alone. You have the "Bolt-Block".....and the rear "cross-bar-block".

2: Offer both a Gray and Blank "Parkerized-Finish" Service.....and a "Blued-Finish" Service at additional costs to those who use your welding sewrvice and do not have that equipment.

Last....to drum up more business.....post a few clear/close photos of your work (with pricing) that show inside and out-side welded-seams, blocks, and new finishes (Blued and Parkerized).

Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net

[MGW LLC]

This is what I've got so far:

1. Weld in F/A Bolt block and bolt block in the rear.
2. Weld in rivet holes.
3. Weld in Barrel Block
4. Measure, align and weld the scrap pieces into an 80%
5. Clean welds and make everything look nice.


I could offer a "Duracote Finishing Service" but I have yet to play with Parkerizing on a mass scale.

I have 2 wicked good welders and a 4000 sq ft facility loaded with the tooling I need at my disposal. Everything would be tig welded with the highest of standards. If I can get enough interest and keep everything on the "up and up" legally then I will get pictures and pricing up soon. I am trying to keep everything in the realm of affordable......and legal.

I am really excited about the Coldsteel rear receivers. If they turn out to be as easy to work with as their past products.....I might be able to bring the Yugo kits back to life without too much fuss.

[Bil]

I think I would also cut the slot for the FCG-it will prevent the FA version from fitting in,it would make the powers that be happy,and anyone gettiny your 80% receiver will have to do some mods anyway,it would not be any problem for them to put in a small piece to attach their own FCG. ---bil

[Blanksguy]

Bil,
The "Full-Auto" slot "length" may be a moot-point at this time......as someone could extend a FA Trigger-Group-Housing at the front to fit a receiver with the longer slot.

Also, the addition of other makers of semi-only Grip-Assemblies may (or may not) fit later.......I would leave it alone at this point.........."or":

Make it an "option" during ordering the work to be accomplished (?).
*******************************************************

INEEDHELP:
I would also:
1: Clarify that the welding would only be done by "TIG"....correct (?).....and that all measurments would be correct/checked and finished 80% receiver would be straight.

2: Please explain that Duracote-Finish-Service is more like a spray-on coating....similar to paint (if I an not mistaken ?)....this clarification will allow potential buyers of your services to know what they are getting for their money....especially if they have to do any type of "welding" later.
I know here that I would prefer (in order):
1: "Blued-Finish".
2: "Black-Parkerization".
3: ...at that point, no other finish for me unless a very-dark "Gray-Parkerization".....as I would do it myself before I would Duracoat mine. (personal-preference).

3: Last....as a potiential "future-issue" if these are outlawed sometime in the future.....possibly dated-photo(s) of each 80% receiver-build where the "blocks" were installed prior to welding into an 80% receiver.......and maybe a "dated-invoice". This may give the present buyers of your service the documentation that they were made correctly (never an MG at any time) for possible "grandfathering" in the future if needed (?).
I know that I would pay the additional-costs for photos and duccumentation.



Regards, RichardS in MI.
Blanksguy2001@chartermi.net

[Cpt_Kirks]

The fact that someone else could extend a FA grip stick is irrelevant. If you extend the slot, you are covered. THEY would go to jail (if they went ahead and extended the stick), you wouldn't.

I would make the slot just long enough that the FA wouldn't fit. That way, any SA stick could be made to fit it. If they need to extend the slot more, fine. The object is to make it HARD (not impossible) to make into a FA.

[Bil]

I agree-the more dificult you make it to prevent conversion to FA,the better for YOU. Remember that it is your own ass you are covering,not some guy down the road.The Feds are the ones you want to keep happy.There are a lot of good ideas in the thread above,I know there will be a lot of the guys that bought the 53 kits that could use this service,I have gotten a lot of questions off-board about it.The important thing is to turn out a quality,consistant product-there is plenty of call for that.Any ideas about pricing yet,or is this still in the feasibility stage? Anyway,good luck,it seems like an idea whose time has come. ---bil

[MGW LLC]

OK here goes:

1. All parts will be TIG welded with copper backplating to insure proper penetration and control over the metal.

2. The receiver's critical dimensions WILL be in line with spec. Our FIRST receiver had a whopping 1mm of shrinkage off of the entire length after welding.
If I receive a kit that is beyond rebuilding, I will return it with a refund rather than put something unsafe out there.
I refuse to send something out the door that I would not shoot myself.

3. I can open up the gripstick slot JUST enough so that a F/A gripstick will not lock in. As an alternative, I can also do up a block on the gripstick slot so that the customer can open it as they see fit.
As I bring my own S/A Gripstick online the slot will be cut to fit them or blocked for the user to mod.

4. Duracote is like a spray enamel type finish on crack. Dark gray or black would be the colors of choice.

5. Complete step by step instructions of the remaining build will be included. If you can operate a dremel tool with minimal skill, you can complete one of these builds.


Just to throw a number out there, I am thinking of offering the service on 2 levels.
1. All the blocks placed and welds done. Receiver is delivered with welds "in the rough". Customer grinds the welds and finishes for around $450.
2. Same as before but the welds are ground and everything made "pretty". The receiver is delivered ready for finishing for around $600.

With the S/A bolt and grip mods pricing at about $250-300, another $600 for a reweld service and $1000 for a 3 cut parts kit at current market prices......Worse case scenario, the build will be coming in $500 cheaper than the Century M53's that you may or may not be able to get your hands on.

If you have one of the $200 M53 kits, with a Coldsteel receiver and replacement barrel bushing you would be coming out even better.

[tomcatshaas]

hmmm, pdstout offers option #2 for $400. welds done and ground. And required mods to the receiver on a 3 cut. $450. for a 4 cut.

TC

[MGW LLC]

Forgot to mention.....I'll guarantee the welds FOR LIFE on option 2.

I'm thinking the price will be the same with 3, 4 cut MG42 or YugoM53 and your rear receiver reweld.

[tomcatshaas]

I wish you luck. one question. For option #1. If you do not grind the welds, how do you know if you have a clean weld with no pin holes?

TC

[MGW LLC]

Thats why I would offer option 2 if you have zero welding equipment or skills.