WW2 German CR barrels? Pricing?

[Patsy57]

So I have recently seen a CR marked Barrel for an MG42 go for $400 bucks. Now I know these are special so to speak but what is the real cost of one of these things? How much do they normally go for? I would think $400 for a barrel is a lot but then again I'm new to this. Let me know your thoughts..

Thanks

~Pat

[42rocker]

Pat
For myself I think that for a shooting or display barrel $400 is double what I would want to pay. That said it took two folks or more in that auction to get it there. So a couple of folks wanted that special barrel to finish that special spot in their collection.
The price of WW2 barrels seems to keep on growing as they are put away into collections and also being shot out and also demilled. I received a real nice German barrel with a German extension that had been shipped in with some parts kits so that nice barrel has three 1/4 inch holes in it. Another one bites the dust.
For shooting barrels at some point in time Green Mountain is going to do another run of 8mm barrels I'm sure. As the price goes up someone is going to want to supply.

Later 42rocker

[Patsy57]

I agree with you, just curious if its more collectible being cr marked? I would prefer a regular barrel lol for display

[JBaum]

One thing to remember about Wolf .308 is that the bullets are steel with a copper wash. Looks good, but it's so thin it rubs off in the barrel. Check the bullets with a magnet. If it sticks, it's not going through my gun barrel.

Shoot steel ammo through a barrel for very long and it eats the rifling. Steel on steel = bad. Copper jacketed bullet are the industry standard for a reason - the copper is softer than steel and doesn't ruin the barrel.

Wolf may be cheap, but it doesn't save you enough to buy a new barrel. This applies to .308 rifles too. Wanna burn out an HK 91 barrel in a few thousand rounds? Not me.

[JBaum]

I agree with you, just curious if its more collectible being cr marked? I would prefer a regular barrel lol for display

Everything is more collectible than everything else. If you try to have have one of everything and every variation, we'll find you on the range some day with a goofy smile, crossed eyes and facial twitch, talking about having found a left threaded metric widget with a Torx #15 head for only $2,000. You just need to borrow some money and it's yours.

[Patsy57]

Lol nice

[42rocker]

John
Do you have the right hand threaded type also?? If not such a deal I have for you. You really do need both in your collection.

Later 42rocker

[Patsy57]

How about the Patsy marked version very rare.. For you my friend I make good price!

[JBaum]

As the Russians like to say, "How much do you want to pay?"
Translation: "I hope you make me an offer that's twice what I had nerve enough to ask for."

Don't be a buyer and a seller. It's the seller's job to state the asking price. It's the buyer's job to buy, refuse, or make a counter offer. The buyer should not be negotiating before the seller has established the starting point. Buyers who do this are known as suckers.

When someone tries to force me into it, I'll say "Would you take$5?" It's an offer, now it's their turn.

If a seller gives you a creepy feeling about the value, originality, or condition of an item, or they claim to know absolutely nothing about what they're selling, but they're only underpriced by enough to make it a good deal, believe your feelings and walk away. If you stay, never pay more than you can afford to lose. Not everybody is an honorable seller. Some are in it for the money only, and don't care about your collection or feelings. If it's way overpriced, chances are the guy will sell you his, then take half of your money and buy another one. It's not illegal to let people pay too much. For some sellers, this is a business strategy.

A high price assures you of nothing other than the item is expensive. Know what you're looking at, and what market price is. Price, appearance, rarity, and the seller's story mean nothing if it's fake. There are only a few undocumented variations of genuinely rare parts. Chances are one is not going to appear on the table of the guy who sells old Playboys and army blankets at the gun show.

What it's worth to you may not be what it's worth to anybody else, but paying a premium price for what you want is nothing to be ashamed of.

A friend asked what I thought of him paying $1400 for a rifle, which should have been $1200. I told him it was $200 too high, but it was nice, it was hard to find, and it was there in front of him now and had been $1000 only a year before. He bought it. It wasn't a question that the price was $200 too high, it was the fact that it was there, was nice, he wanted one, and there was no guarantee he would find one as nice before the price went to $1400 anyway. He paid $200 extra to be happy for sure now, rather than be maybe happy later. A few bucks extra for insurance against disappointment is not a bad deal. The gun sells for $2500 today, when you can find one, and they're not as nice.
Moral of the story: Don't be so cheap as to be self-defeating.

Rarity does not equal high price. Whale (Try a different word.) is rare. It is not expensive.

Before collecting hardware, spend money on books about the hardware to educate yourself. It's cheaper in the long run, and the books are often as collectible as the hardware anyway, and usually appreciate as fast as the hardware. You can always sell them later and break even on the books, while coming out ahead in knowledge and not getting taken.

[haak48]

Back to "Cr", barrels (hard chromed bore & chamber). I have bought them at the going price for a standard barrel when the seller did not care about the difference and priced all his barrels the same. I am not a barrel collector but rather a shooter and the service life of these barrels is claimed by the Germans to be about 12,000 rounds compared to the average for a standard (non chromed) barrel life in combat of about 3500 rds. You get three times the barrel for the price. Four or five times the life if you keep your bursts short. I have one Cr marked blaster barrel that I use for night shoots, and while well worn, it still shoots well enough after 15 plus years. JH

[Patsy57]

Guys as always I appreciate the info!

I truly am so excited about the Mg42 I can't contain myself!

I believe in what you said about books, I collect WW2 matching Lugers and zero series p38s as well as the occasional Krieghoff Luger (1936 is my year ) without books I woul be lost without experience I would be had many times on bad deals and boosted product!

I hope to be as proficient in the MG42 as I am with my other toys soon!

Thanks

[K98dkmauser]

hope your mg42 turns out well

will it be semi or f/a

[Patsy57]

hope your mg42 turns out well

will it be semi or f/a

Unfortunately it can only be semi


Thanks for the good wishes!

[42rocker]

Patsy57
I might have given you this great website before but then it was for mg42 stuff now that I know about your lugers I say check it out again.

http://www.parabellum.at/

Later 42rocker