I'm building....need some things....

[ChrisPCook]

Finally after all this time got things rolling this weekend, shouldn't be too long. Couple questions (there will be more to follow I'm sure....)
1) Does anyone out there have a spare set of correct nuts, and the rear bolt, for the recuperator, mine are awol, I at least would like to have the front nut to the front bolt, I could fashion something on the rear...PM me if you have what I need please...
2) I'm not a machinist, so in laymans terms, can someone explain to me exactly what needs to be "radiused" on the top of the bolt block, I'm probably going to use a home depot clevis pin coming up from underneath trimmed to length, just need to know what I need to round off on top...I've checked pictures here on the forum, but some are either gone now, or too dark to get a proper idea....

Chris....

[rhw1225]

I might have a lead on the recouperator bolts you need. Try contacting Tom at KMP. Karma Metal Products has them listed on thier website as a new product.
http://www.karmametalproducts.com/KAR_FIREARM_PARTS.htm

[drooling idiot]

on the bolt block ,
you just want to smooth up the edges that the recoil spring might bind on as it travels overtop of the boltblock.
I found this pic of a bullet to kinda show what you want the top of the boltblock to resemble.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

[Bil]

It will also make a diferance with your bolt conversion-the 'sail' that is welded on the bolt must clear,also the arm on the cockink handle. ---bil

[propos]

What's a oockink handle, bil? I've been looking for one and can't find any.

[Bil]

It is sort of like the cocking handle,but differant.Very rare,but I have one I would sell you.Very expensive,though!! ---bil

[ChrisPCook]

Bolt block installed, rails installed....thanks for the picture showing a proper "radius"...sometimes a pix is worth a thousand words....
1) My bolt moves freely up and down the channel on the rails until it gets to the point of the cam, at that point the rollers bind up on the cam, any suggestions?
2) On the same subject, the center "lip/guide" on the rails meet the cams straight on, on both sides. They have a pronouned 90 degree step between where the rail ends, and where it drops into the trunion. Does the rail need to be rounded down to gently meet the cam "notch" at this point. Or is the pronounced "step" normal....I guess it's my turn to take photos, but some of you might follow my "diatribe" hopefully
Thanks, Chris...

[Bil]

ON #1-make sure the rivets are tight,also make sure the receiver isn't bent in slightly there.Mine had to be spread slightly.I used the rivet tool,do you have one? If that doesnt work,careful filing may be in order.Color the rails with Dychem or magic marker and see where it is rubbing. ---bil

[drooling idiot]

on 2, I think i follow what your saying about the rails being a little larger than the cam on the center tabs.
I don't see how it could hurt to smooth the transition up but you shouldn't have a problem with it as is. If you can unlock the bolt by rotating the cocking handle out 90* you don't have an issue. If you cant, make sure you have the compound leverage of the handle working right.

[Bil]

The bolt sort of 'floats' as it goes down the rails,but as it enters the cam piece,it is centered more tightly.The taper of the bolt head ensures that it goes in correctly.Where did you think you would need to smooth it,I am not sure where you mean.Also,I would check to see that the rivet heads aren't interfering with the bolt.Sometimes setting the rivets spreads the head into the bolt path a little,and they need a little filing.I hope this makes sense.Again,a magic marker will show if it is rubbing.Good luck. ---bil