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I've got a transferable mg34, my question is regarding the semi auto function of the trigger group. When I hand cycle (charge the bolt back and pull the semi part of the trigger) the bolt falls but the trigger itself remains depressed, when i charge it again the trigger pops back out into the firing position. my issue is that when I pull the trigger and hold it then charge the weapon with the semi trigger held down (like function checking it) it will not reset itself, it stays stuck to the rear when I let my finger off it.

is this supposed to happen? honestly I've only been out with it twice and both times didn't mess with the semi function.

Remove the grip from the gun, soak it in kerosene for an hour or two, and blow it out with an airgun. Sounds like a dirt/old grease problem to me.

I actually had previously taken the whole grip stick apart and cleaned and reoiled then reassembled, I'm positive I did it right, could this be a result of a dead trigger spring? when I dry fire with just the semi trigger should it pop back out into "firing" position again?

I should also say that pulling the "D" or auto part of the trigger and it pops back out with no problem, but it sticks in semi

I'm not familiar enough with the operation of the MG34 grip internals to comment with certainty, so I'll leave it to someone who is.

At the worst, bring it to SAR West show in Phoenix in December. Greg from MG34.com will be there and could diagnose it in a minute.

A little more on this issue, it seems that the bottom of the sear itself is somehow causing the trigger to bind when the sear resets in semi auto mode. hope this makes sense, I'm thinking that the most likely fix for this would probably be to get a new trigger and/or sear. Anyone had this experiance? Still works in auto though.

no one has had or heard of this issue? does anyone know of anyone knowledgeable with the mg34 platform who I might be able to call and inquire on this?

I sort of had this with my gun, I had two good BRP parts kits, and I got the trigger groups of each cleaned up, and all the (vast) amount of cosmoline cleaned out of them... and then went to work.

First off, I have been shocked since then looking at transferable MG34's that I have seen; my gun, and many others, do not have German WWII trigger groups. Look carefully, and if possible, look at a real WWII German one. I noticed differences immediately in the trigger itself. I can't recall it all right now, but I remember there was a protrusion missing on the Postwar job. I ditched the Postwar one, and installed a German WWII one, cleaned out, and boom, no more problems of that type at all. Night and day. I still don't know what the problem was exactly with the post war one, but I would tell you to first off check carefully that your grip and trigger assembly is even German, the fake isn't really the same thing!

my trigger itself doesn't seem to have any markings on it, I also cant find any waffenampts on the gripstick frame, did you just get a new frame or a whole new grip stick assembly? (the trigger bar has a very clean waffenampt on it though)

not sure i understand about the fake parts. who is making fake MG34 parts? i know bulgaria would grind down the lever that pivots up and down to the right of the trigger bar. the small round knob that gets hit by the cocking lever attaches to it. i've seen the square studs gound off on many bulgaria parts kits that makes the semi function not work. - matt

Mine wasn't marked with any waffenampts at all on the trigger guard/ grip or the trigger, I since then reinstalled all original German WWII parts. Im not sure who made them, they are old military, I thought, not new made.
I thought they could be perhaps French, or the Chechs?? I can only say the they happen, they must have been common at one time. I'll see if I can dig mine out for pics, they're just enough different to not quite work like I wanted them too...

my safety catch has the two little studs facing inward toward the trigger, which brings me to a question about which one is proper because I see here: viewtopic.php?f=48&t=4766 half way down the page it shows the safety catch without the two little inward facing studs...

I found a pic online of what mine looks like, what does not having the two studs on the left of the part in the picture do to the gun?

oh and my grip frame isnt marked with any waffenampts that I can see without taking the grips off, in the front of the trigger guard its stamped with 41 and on the left side of the frame on the middle it has an S and another letter i cant make out, but no serial numbers or other identifying markings.

Where are you located in AZ? I have quite a few trigger parts. JH

I just moved to Havasu city from Phoenix, what trigger parts do you have?

I have several complete trigger groups as well as spares. I have owned and worked on these guns for nearly thirty years. There are some mods made in the USA to the trigger to allow the gun to be transfered to "FA" only states as well as post war mods that accomplish the same thing. I am in Prescott, if you can get here, I am confident we can fix your fire control. No charge of course. JH

Besides being properly clean and assembled, be sure the components are in position before installing grip stick. Place receiver upside down on table and drop grip stick into place. There should be no resistance of any kind. JH

yes the "correct" picture is how I've been trying to assemble it, but it still offers some resistance, but I just discovered that if i push on the sear from the inside of the receiver very very slightly it will drop in with no problem, seems like somehow the sear itself is extending down into the gripstick just enough to bind on the trigger bar.