New M53 is giving me so many problems

[MIKEMC]

Some pics.

[12thWaffenSS]

yes,the new ammo is the Romanian.The old stuff is 1950 Yugo i think.It has a star on the base,date.Could be Korean?
The brass ones that did fire seem to have a deeper primmer strike than the ones that did not.If i installed a light hit round back in the breech it would fire.The Romanian stuff fired everytime no matter what the strike was.

My understanding is that the Yugo ammo from the 50's has harder primers. I installed a heavier hammer spring from Wolff in my M53 and now I don't have any problems. I still prefer to shoot the Steel Cased Romanian ammo which is lighter and cheaper and works great.

[noonxnoon]

12th,

You feel you need to get the hammer string was needed?

I have read and BRP has a section about the pin punching through the primer, etc with heavier springs...but didn't know if I would need that harder spring, or just use a different sized booster cone?

Are you still using the cone that came with your 53, or did you get different sizes?

[12thWaffenSS]

12th,

You feel you need to get the hammer spring was needed?

I have read and BRP has a section about the pin punching through the primer, etc with heavier springs...but didn't know if I would need that harder spring, or just use a different sized booster cone?

Are you still using the cone that came with your 53, or did you get different sizes?

Yes, the heavier hammer spring helps although not needed for the Romanian Ammo.

I've never noticed the pin punching through the primer. The surplus Yugo ammo typically has deep set primers and there's no way the firing pit could get that deep into them. Just my opinion.

Yes, I'm still using the same booster cone or nozzle that the gun came with.

[hakentt]

12th,

You feel you need to get the hammer string was needed?

I have read and BRP has a section about the pin punching through the primer, etc with heavier springs...but didn't know if I would need that harder spring, or just use a different sized booster cone?

Are you still using the cone that came with your 53, or did you get different sizes?

I got some Czech ammo from 50s and on that one pierce primers. And having issued with this ammo rupturing cases weare bolt head and barrel meet.

Question is what should be the headspace when bolt head rollers lock into barrel trunion?

[Seabee]

Failure to eject a spent casing is usually caused by not enough gas pressure to drive the barrel, then the bolt back to the ejector. Drag created by the wearing in of the barrel bushing in the front repair section is easily remedied by taking a dremel tool to the bumps created during this break in. Not every receiver develops these bumps though the same jig is used on every receiver. The best test to find out if you have drag is to remove the flash hider and recoil nozzle, then press down on the barrel bushing. If the barrel and bushing do not move freely, there is drag. If you aren't sure if there is enough spring pressure, stand it on it's barrel bushing and push down. If the gun can't push its weight back up, there is drag some where or there are recuperator issues.

If the barrel moves freely and there is still failure to eject, it is usually a gas pressure issue. The firearm is sent out with the recuperator that had the best function with the ammo it was tested on. Unfortunately, all ammo is not created equal. Yours may not be as hot as the test ammo. There is a number hand enscribed on the recoil nozzle; 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, or 13mm. The next smaller size will usually fix the eject problem. This system was created so the gas pressure could be changed without cutting the main spring any more than necessary. (Plus its easier to tote a few nozzles than a handful of mainsprings if you change ammo a lot.)

The other and less likely possibility is that your ejector bar is short or slightly warped. Lay it on a flat surface to make sure it isn't bowed like a pool cue. Stand the assembled bolt on its rear end and push the bolt head down with the rollers out to resemble the bolt in lock up. The ejector should be near flush with the bolt face. If the bar is short, the ejector will be down in its hole a fair bit. The bolt must be in the lock up position for this to be an accurate measurement.

[Seabee]

Also, some of the WLA 53's were made with DPMS hammer springs, but are now made with Wolff hammer springs as the DPMS springs seemed to be getting weaker and weaker with each purchase. The DPMS springs may cause some of the light striking as they wear. The DPMS springs usually are copper colored and the Wolff springs have more of a golden tint (and a considerably better smack.)

Also check the rear firing pin for signs of mushrooming. If the hammer is hitting it on a slight angle, it will usually cause mushrooming and the indirect hit may cause slight drag between the firing pin and the sleeve. Sometimes, just enough for a light strike here and there. Using a belt sander to take the mushroom off the rear to square the pin again is usually enough to correct this. This is a rare occurrence though.