
MG42 Muzzle Brake - not a flash hider
- TOM R
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wow no comments man guess i don't need to worry bout other designs 

Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost
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- JBaum
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Well Tom, did you see what I mean about indexing not being a problem? What you've done looks great, but I see how the one above could have indexing considerations.
The design the Germans used would likely work as well as your design, and it'd have the cool factor because it's like the originals.
I do have to admit to being a little surprised that with as much interest as there is, you're the only one who spent the big $6 to actually get the manual. They cost me a buck to have printed, a little over a buck for the envelope and postage, plus the cost of driving into town. So far, I've made about $2 profit.... oh well, I don't do this for the money.
The design the Germans used would likely work as well as your design, and it'd have the cool factor because it's like the originals.
I do have to admit to being a little surprised that with as much interest as there is, you're the only one who spent the big $6 to actually get the manual. They cost me a buck to have printed, a little over a buck for the envelope and postage, plus the cost of driving into town. So far, I've made about $2 profit.... oh well, I don't do this for the money.
- TOM R
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well i want to get a second design made up first , as you can see the booster I made is not totaly symetrical since it is hand made, this would require the buyer sending a booster they tightened onto their gun and marked clearly which lock tab was used to give the center cause if you give me the wrong center then you will get a crooked booster, every gun is different, what do you guys think this is worth? i am not good at setting prices, and it looks simple but is time consuming with shaping and grinding and welding 

Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost
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- TOM R
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john the 2 piece design would be to expensive to produce, i am no machinest jut a guy with some tools, though I do want to make 1 like your pic just welded instead of 2 piece, was also thinkin of 1 like the barret 50 cal rifle, this 1 i made is definitly the least time consuming of my ideas I want to try, i was trying to copy the look of the one in the one manual but don't want to post a pic from the manual since they are 4 sale
any experimental ones for the mg3 or m53 or mg74?

any experimental ones for the mg3 or m53 or mg74?
Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost
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- TOM R
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got the new manuals john and they look great as always thanks 

Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost
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- JBaum
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The MG42 armorer's manual is a good one. I need to find the MG34 version next. If I didn't spend all my spare time translating, I'd be working with a lathe and some threading dies to come up with the brake myself. With the style in the manual, you could leave the locking tabs off and let whoever buys it weld them on and blue/park it.
Ahhhh, too many projects to choose from, not enough time. I need to quit my real job and just play all day.
Ahhhh, too many projects to choose from, not enough time. I need to quit my real job and just play all day.
- TOM R
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john i personaly like this profile from the other maual, the style in your pic is my next variation but is more wok and still will be welded
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- JBaum
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I thought those were called flash hiders, not muzzle brakes. The ZB-26 and ZB-30 have the same style and they're called flash hiders on those.... Drilling a bunch of little holes in a flash hider doesn't make it a muzzle brake.
A muzzle brake deflects some of the gas rearward to counteract the recoil of the gun.... thus "braking" the recoil. There are no ducts or deflectors on your style for that purpose. Holes help reduce the flash by allowing the unburned powder to get oxygen faster to burn off, thus reducing the flash duration. Which, by the way, is supposed to help hide the flash from the shooter, not hide the flash from the shootee.
A muzzle brake deflects some of the gas rearward to counteract the recoil of the gun.... thus "braking" the recoil. There are no ducts or deflectors on your style for that purpose. Holes help reduce the flash by allowing the unburned powder to get oxygen faster to burn off, thus reducing the flash duration. Which, by the way, is supposed to help hide the flash from the shooter, not hide the flash from the shootee.
- TOM R
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well my big problem is time, and also i am trying to figure a way to cut the slots in round tubing to make the second type, the dremil is to time cinsuming and burns up wheels too fast, it would take 4++ reinforced wheels to make 1 hider and a grinder is to big, i am thinking a torch with a fine tip or drill holes then square the ends
Great men are born in fire, it is the privilege of lessor men to light the flame, no matter the cost
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FOR M60 GOTO http://WWW.M60MG.COM
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56 CJ3B U.S. Navy
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- JBaum
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The sides of the brake where the flaps are - let's call that a U shape (although it's a squared U) With the muzzle brake pointing up: mark two squared Us on the tube - one on each side. Drill a 1/8 - 3/16" hole at the tops of the U on both sides of the tube which will become the brake. Feed a scroll saw blade through the tube, through one hole of what will be the front flap on left, and the front flap on the right. (See the picture.). As you look at the brake, the blade would go through the top right on one side, and the top left on the other. Mount the blade in the saw, put on your safety glasses, and cut the penciled U shape into the tube, down, across, and up the other leg of the U to the other holes. Remove the saw blade from the tube, and do the same thing again for the pair of rear flaps. Afterwards, heat the flaps with a torch till they're red and bend them out with a screwdriver till you can grab them with a pliers. Bend the flaps till they're evenly bent out. Holes, flaps, cheap, easy.....
Those are the basics as I envision it. Make the rest of the brake as is shown in the manual, and it shouldn't be a major task. I made my demo out of a plastic bottle. What do you think?

Those are the basics as I envision it. Make the rest of the brake as is shown in the manual, and it shouldn't be a major task. I made my demo out of a plastic bottle. What do you think?
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- run the scroll saw blade through the same side of both U holes. Cut and bend.
- brake3.jpg (100.15 KiB) Viewed 1449 times
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- brake2.jpg (62.07 KiB) Viewed 1449 times
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- Draw the U shapes on both sides, drill holes at the tops of the U
- brake1.jpg (72.37 KiB) Viewed 1449 times
- SHARPSSHOOTER5090
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BOOSTER INTERNAL AREA
HYDRAULIC THEORY SAY THAT THE FORCE ON A PISTON, i.e.THE FACE FOR THE BOOSTER, IS A FUNCTION OF THE CROSS SECTIONAL AREA OF THE PISTON AND THE PRESSURE, NOT THE VOLUMN. INCREASING THE INTERNIAL VOLUMN WILL NOT INCREASE THE FORCE THE BOOSTER PUSHES THE BARREL BACK. A MUZZLE BRAKE MAY OR MAY NOT RAISE OR THE PRESSURE ON THE FACE OF THE BOOSTER. IT WILL DEPEND ON THE DESIGN OF THE MUZZLE BRAKE AND HOW MUCH OF THE GAS IS DISSAPATED. JUST A THOUGHT.
SHARPSSHOOTER5090 (MECHANICAL ENGINEER)
( I WISH I COULD SPELL)
SHARPSSHOOTER5090 (MECHANICAL ENGINEER)
( I WISH I COULD SPELL)
Last edited by SHARPSSHOOTER5090 on Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Just change the location in your profile to some obscure country and no-one will notice the spelling!
Seriously,the ideas are more inportant than any spelling.Also-is the rule stated the same for pneumatic theory as for hydraulic theory? I know some of it is the same and some different.Thanks. ---bil

- SHARPSSHOOTER5090
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HYDRAULIC AND PNEUMATIC THEORY
YES, THE RULES ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH.
SHARPSSHOOTER5090
SHARPSSHOOTER5090